Monday, December 1, 2008

my dirty little secret


Pretty much everything I cook or bake for guests is wonderful. I know that sounds arrogant, but it's true. And the thing is, my stuff isn't good because I'm amazing. Far from it. My food is good because I know my strengths and I know my weaknesses and I always play to my strengths. I also know the ingredients or else I don't work with them (experimenting in the kitchen is another story altogether). Most of the books in my kitchen are more about the science, history, and quality of food than they are compilations of recipes. I would never make something for a crowd unless I knew it was going to work out well. And it always does. I have sufficiently good skills, a solid understanding of kitchen chemistry, great familiarity with ingredients, and I also know whose recipes to trust and whose to test out first.

Many months ago I decided to have a fondue party for friends. I hadn't made fondue for ages, but I knew I could do it and the variables had never confounded me in the past. My boyfriend was incredulous that it would work out: apparently nobody in his circle of friends has successfully made fondue. He actively tried to talk me out of fondue and wanted greater assurances that I was an expert. I'm not. But I fearlessly bought a variety of wonderful, expensive French cheeses and just knew it would work out. And it did. The fondue was perfect. But I knew it would be.

But this post isn't about fondue, it's about Thanksgiving, where I was asked to make something that I knew wouldn't work out and it was beyond my control to do anything about. Let me preface here by saying that I love Thanksgiving and I have a stack of standby recipes that work. I do a great Thanksgiving feast. My turkeys are perfect (thank you, Alton Brown) and the sides are outstanding. And to end it all, I make an amazing pumpkin cheesecake. It is cheesecake perfection. Again, not because I'm amazing, it's just that I understand cheesecake. 

This Thanksgiving, however, I was not even remotely in charge of the menu. I was a guest. As a polite guest, I offered to make pumpkin cheesecake (see how I roll?). But I was informed that someone else had already taken cheesecake, yet would I be so kind as to come help cook on Wednesday? Of course I would. When I arrived, I was handed a recipe for a maple pumpkin pie and set to work. Everybody loves pumpkin pie. Everybody loves maple syrup. And everyone assumes I'm a good baker. But here's the dirty little secret: I cannot make pies. I make pumpkin cheesecake because it's easier than pie. And everybody assumes it's harder. For the life of me, I cannot bake pies. I don't even bother anymore. It's not the insides that perplex me, it's the crust. I buy crusts. I buy local, organic, butter crusts. But I buy them. And I do it without shame. I understand the chemistry of pie crusts; I have followed instructions to the T; I've tried manipulating every variable (shortening? lard? ice water? vinegar? egg? cream? I've tried it all); I've made pie crusts by hand; I've used a Cuisinart; and yet my crusts never work out.

So I was handed this recipe, in someone else's kitchen where I was a guest. And I panicked. I couldn't say no; I had to make the pie. And while I protested my abilities, everyone thought it was just false modesty. But there was nothing false about it. I saw that this recipe came from Martha Stewart and knew I was doomed. I have had more tragic experiences trying to make Martha's beautiful holiday creations than I care to recount. I don't even bother anymore. If the recipe came from Martha, I just don't do it. It's part of my plan to make sure everything I make is good. 

And even worse, I was given the recipe, but not the article that had the pictures and step-by-step instructions for making the pie (not that it would have helped, necessarily). Suffice it to say, the pie was terrible. The filling was good, but the crust was a chewy, dry, terrible mess. It looked beautiful (to the untrained eye), but it was awful. I could barely eat my own piece. And the thing is, I knew from the moment I started making the crust that it would be bad. I could see each step taking me further and further from the path of flaky goodness, I could see the gluten developing but I couldn't very well start over in someone's else's kitchen after I had already used 2-1/2 sticks of butter. Could I? I pushed through, made the pie and I served it with a slice of humble pie on the side.

As my family would say, Becahdawn ruined Thanksgiving. What kind of person ruins the pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving? This experience has only reinforced my commitment to buying pie crusts from Bi-Rite. That, and making cheesecakes whenever possible.

10 comments:

Harriet Toothfighter said...

Is that a picture of the pie? It was so pretty. I just laughed so hard reading your blog post. Seriously. You and I are so different, though: I'll make anything for anybody under any circumstances, forget the outcome. I experiment too much. I admire those who can figure out what works and actually stick with it.

cay said...

Oh Herman!! It's too, too funny.

As a heads up for you and Heather: we'll be making Emily Gold's Cinnamon Rolls for Christmas morning. I've already attempted them once. Not horrible, but not very good. I'm experimenting.

Remember how delicious those were?! Mmm. We'll get it right.

whoozle said...

Becah, I cannot make pie crust to save my soul. I too, always buy my pie crusts. But Gram said I could and sometimes she does, too, so I feel no shame.

James the Great said...

Boo, I feel your pain. I hate making pie crust, even though I've done a good one from time to time. That said, I understand completely that your standards of culinary excellence exceed mine in nearly ever way. I'm sure I've been happy with plenty of pie crusts which wouldn't never pass muster in your book.

I must say, however, that I enjoyed your little predicament and really appreciate you being able to say you're good at what you do. When talking about his chili one, Pomp compared himself to Muhammad Ali and informed me it's okay to say you're the best when you really are. He makes the best chili, Muhammad Ali was the best boxer and you make the best pumpkin cheesecake. (Which, by the way, I'm now expecting at some point during my time at home for Christmas.)

James the Great said...

The best part about your blog is the commenting committee: Bizzy, Teenie, Bob and Me! That's it!

crittersherwood said...

I don't make good pie crusts either. I actually don't even make pies. I just like eating them. I also really enjoyed reading your post, and had a few good giggles. I was pulling for you the whole time! I was hoping for a miraculous save at the end. Oh, well. Atleast it was pretty. However, I too am expecting some pumpkin cheesecake at Christmas.

becahdawn said...

Snoozie and Critter are also on the commenting committee. How fun!

cay said...

I'm not going to lie. I make good pie crust.

Even Joe likes it and he doesn't care for dessert!

Mommy said...

Not to be left out, years ago I made an apple pie for our 4th of July picnic. It was the year we rode the Heber Creeper. Gramma Aamodt was with us. We carried the picnic on the train and ate at the other end. When I took the pie out, a number of people commented how beautiful it looked. It was perfect. (Didn't taste too bad either.) It was a pre-rolled crust. I never make homemade. Too many failures. Course now days I don't even make pies. Why bother when Gwum is around?

RC said...

that's pretty funny...i love your "dirty little secret."

you need to watch alton brown's episode on pies...he'll give some good crust pointers on great pie tenderness.